Ceramic, porcelain, marble, granite, terrazzo, etc. are widely valued for their beauty, strength, and durability. Available mostly in grout in the form of slabs or tiles, they are very popular with homeowners and are becoming a staple in many homes.
Tile and stone installations can be difficult, but with the right tools and skills, even a beginner can achieve great results. Tile and stone installation is my all-time favorite business, and I’d like to share with you some of the installation techniques I’ve used over the years. Let’s begin!
Tools – You will have the right tools to install the tiles correctly. So usually you will need:
- Measuring tape
- A marker
- Tile presses
- A tile cutter
- Marked journey and one point of travel
- 4 or 5-inch angle grinder
- Wet tile p
- Clay mixer blade (for thin-set mortar)
- Diamond hole saws (for plumbing fixtures))
- A drill
Materials – Thin-Set Mortar (for floors) Hard Baker or Cement Board, Baker Board Patches, Ceramic Tile Mast (for walls)) and the tiles you will install.
The movement of tiles and stones is very sensitive. If you are laying tile floors, tear the floor under the floor or plywood underlayment. Next, tighten the floor with 2-inch screws to squeeze and reduce bounce. Thoroughly clean the floor from dry areas and make sure it is flat. If the sub-floor is rotated, it must be replaced with plywood equal to “3/4 inch”.
Check the level for the basement and concrete floor, the entire floor level, and the leveling. If necessary, level any bottom and grind to a height. If you are installing wall tiles, the walls should be thoroughly cleaned and free of debris. New drywall is recommended, and if you’re tiling a tub or using it around a shower, use a 1/2 “hardware baker or cement board.
Floor Tile Installation
After preparing your sub-floor for tile sealing, measure and lay the 1/2 “baker board to be installed on top of the plywood. Baker boards come in 3 feet x 5 feet, so plan for arrangements where When your layout is complete, add some sets of thin mortar and use a U or square marked troll, spread a thin set of coats under each board, and then glue well. Hold it using light pressure. Throw it down using the baker’s board patch.
Keep inches apart and repeat until all the boards are in place and secure with the patch. Use the flat end of your troll. With thin seat spreads and backer board tape to embed. Smooth out any extras.
Next, use a long, long wall in it. Room your point. For starters, using the square rule, keep your tiles dry and until you meet your deductions. Half of the tiles Apply less than. Apply floor sprayer and double-check work to get uniform grout joint. Lay your tiles when everyone is ready.
In place of the baker’s board, there is a new outline for a tile called Polyethylene Detra, a polyethylene membrane enclosed in a thin set and placed on top of a plywood subfloor, and you can tile it. Due to its features, it is great for solid floors and basements, but for large jobs, it can be very expensive.
The cheapest way you can use this is to attach a 16 gauge wire rod to the floor and then tile it straight. However, unless you run out of cash, I would recommend Baker Board or Slotra Detra System. Do not tile directly on the plywood subfloor. The thin plywood set will absorb water and moisture, and your tiles will be loose.
Measure the feet in one direction in the corner and make your mark, Step 2: Measure the foot in the corner in the other direction and make your mark. Three: Measure the distance between the signs. If it’s equal to 5 feet, it’s square. Start sharpening your chalk lines.
If your measurements are less than 5 feet or more than 5 feet, adjust your markings to the square.
Wall Tile Installation
The key to installing wall tiles is to keep the surface and plumbing of all your tiles. Around the shower and tub, make sure your baker’s board is installed (do not use drywall) and you can get started. Start at a corner, mark the height of your tile, and then use this level to equalize the height.
Then measure the surrounding central wall and mark the dead center, and use the level to pull the surface to its desired height. Starting with this centerline, lay your tiles with grout joints, and make sure that all the luck ends up in your corner when your wall becomes a wall.
Similarly, even with the final cut, start tiling your line from time to time for plumbing and laying as you go. Make sure you use a small toothpick for the wall tiles.
When the center wall is finished, start tiling the other walls, starting with the complete tiles, and make sure that all the huts in the corners are finished. Use ceramic tile mastic, and when it is fully formed you can start grouting.
It is recommended to apply ceramic tile masonry on the dry drywall for the walls around the shower and tub. Bathrooms have drywall (green color) that protects against moisture.
Tips On Grouting
Generally, for floors that you use sand gravel, and for walls, you rely on the combined size of the tiles and the manufacturer’s recommendations. Mix your grout with a clay mixer blade in your drill until it is done.
Peanut butter consistency, and start floating your grout joints at 90-degree angles, making sure to fill every grout line and joint. Sealing some stains, such as granite and marble, to avoid stains.
Check your tiles and take the necessary steps. After the grout, make it for 10 to 20 minutes and start grout cleaning, use warm water and a grout sponge, and gently clean at 90-degree angles. Rinse your sponge regularly to keep it clean. Has been cleared.
When the grout is completely healed and dry (usually 24-48 hours.) Use a terry cloth or cheesecloth to remove the “must” from the tile. Then you can install a grout sealer.